Thursday, December 9, 2010

Iron Road Running


To me there is something almost soothing about old tools, old machinery. The feeling of history simultaneously impossibly far away and yet tantalizingly close. The scent of past use, dulled by generations of oil lamps, of echoing footsteps, hushed voices, tarnished brass fittings, of wood precious as carved ivory. This is the scent of history; comforting us by saying, one hundred years may have passed but what you were is still remembered. What you gave is still useful.

That is why you will find such things around the Range. There is a feeling of innate security in tools that were made to last. Cast iron, machined bronze, Brazilian rosewood, forged high carbon steel. When I hold them, use them, I still seeing the original owners life stamped into the tool, which cost a weeks pay in their time. A time when things were made to last, for a people that had faith in the future and the destiny of our country.

When I was a kid, log trains coming off the mountains would cut shadows across our property, dark forms that would slide over the wall above my bed, over the model boats and planes and trains my brother and I had built. And with the shadow came one of the first sounds of memory, the mournful wail of a train. In daytime, we'd ride our bides along the tracks, searching for diesel smoke in the air, throbbing engines, hoping for quick glimpse. When we did, it was glory, racing our bikes as if we could keep up with it, trailing as fast as we could pedal in wake of smoke that smelled of adventures we could only dream of, crickets sawing away in accompaniment in the summer day of childhood, slowly dying.

If we thought we could go all that way before sunset, and without getting caught, we'd ride as far as the local timber mill, which had multiple tracks running in. We'd sit, breathless as two trains would come in together, praying against a collision, only to have one veer off and stop, while a quarter mile of cars passed. I think of the missing man formation, in which a squadron of fighter planes performs a low pass, one separating and flying off to the heavens. A howling ballet, it's performers mighty machines. Both sights bring a lump to my throat.

We'd look for the engineer up in the engine, indistinct yet mighty, and we wondered who he is and what's in his heart as he holds the power in, his steady foot balancing on an engine that knocks and rumbles. We're not supposed to be her , this close to the tracks, this far from home, and we're going to be late for supper. But we know enough, having learned early on, that for something you love, for the ineffable feeling of rightness, of being exactly where you want to be, in tune with nature and yourself, accompanied by a trains whistle, there will be a price to pay, and it will be worth it.

Now, I'm grown and I'm free to wander the plains and the rails.

The last train trip was a short one when business took me up to Central Ohio and I made a trip on the Cuyahoga Valley train. There were other tourist things to do, yet this was a good day, a trek with a packed sandwich, sitting in a car generations older than I, restored to meticulous polish, watching the trees, the water and even an eagle nookery slide past. The line is run by volunteers, the cars kept up by donations, people who love the rails keeping it alive in a time where speed is of the essence and the old is often replaced by the new, not due to necessity but for the misguided notion that new is always better, that young is always the most desirable.

The extensive park it travels through runs clear down into Central Ohio, with glimpses of simple frame houses, bought at Sears Roebuck, generations ago, for the workers cutting the valleys through which the train passed. The train made stops where we could get off and visit where the trains are restored and maintained, walls of tools, lit by old lamps. Old shops in ancient buildings, the smell of wood and cast iron forever in the air.

Back on the train, the conductor gave us snippets of history over the loudspeakers; spoke of men cutting through the heavy hills of rock and the soil by hand with a brace of mules. (Abrasive Mules?) With the conductors words we could almost picture the mules and the men working, toiling in the cold and the heat and the abrupt change of seasons that is the Great Lakes, and it provided a frame to the landscape outside which was more suitable than the sleek, shiny cars we occasionally saw at the crossings. We could look out on the bare trees and picture those trees as new growth, leaves laid out like hands, gathering the rain and the wind that fueled their growth. We rolled past old buildings in which engine repairs had been made, are still made, the wind ripping the sound of our wheels onward and away, like scraps of paper on which history is written. That is history, the leavings and the shards, the remnants of people who toiled and dreamed and made something that for its day, rivaled any mode of transportation we have today.

One of the cars we saw dated back to 1918 and was used for carrying passengers in the time of WWI. What had it been like for those first people riding out on the trains that now rushed past us? I imagine myself as those people on the train, young men loading their simple gear and saying goodbye, heading towards a future that is ambiguous at best. I picture them boarding the train, in silence, commitment and perhaps fear, yet with a tremulous excitement for what they had accomplished to this day. What would have it been like for those first passengers, for those brave enough to make that first trip, for that moment of exultation when the cars pushed on up an incline constructed in sweat, blood and mud, the trains whistle throwing up an appeal, a defiant cry to the land, "I am this nations' future and I will be heard".

Today that rallying cry was but an echo so I leaned back my head against the seat, and closed my eyes, feeling the train through my bones, its song lulling me back to a day not long distant. I heard the tracks and the whistle, the sound of a eagles cry as it raced the wind behind. Then I didn't hear anything outside at all, only the rhythm of the wheels, rocking me gently, the scent of hard steel coming up out of the darkness, in the valley below, to quicken something in me as old as time.

The ride was over too soon, and time to head back. The long drive back home was mostly in silence, thinking of a simpler time, of sights and sounds of places we are blessed to know, of shiny trains buoyant in the sunlight, the whistle of the train winding through the misty valleys of our past.

11 comments:

Tango Juliet said...

Trains... they're so very wistful.

Nice Brigid.

Keads said...

SO very timely for me this post! I am going to operate a honest to God old steam locomotive this weekend for 30 minutes!

I view them the same as my Mustangs (cars), and Colt's. They are time machines just as you so eloquently said. The best I will probably do after running the locomotive is "that was fun"!

Thanks for the post and the poem was off the charts!

K

Sven said...

Colorado's history is inexorably linked like a Celtic knot to railroads. Gold and silver, cattle and secondary metals have relied on the rails to move them down the rugged canyons, across the bleak passes to the "civil" lands below. Narrow gauge locomotives, tenders and cars still ply some of the old lines, mostly for tourists.

Back in March or April of '09 you posted a poem of steam and rail which churned up a post of my own:
(http://theprairiemelts.blogspot.com/2009/04/road-to-jerusalem.html.

And a poem followed suit, quick and clear:



Narrow Gauge Age

Named for a mountain,
Named for a dance hall gal,
Named for “Silverheels.”


~~~*~~~

The green aspen cloak turned wild
Slopes where rusty granite split
Silver, gold, and base metal ore
In trout shadow rivers, and there,
There on the sweet grass slope
Where wapiti, emperor elk
Grazed in golden summer hay.
There man first built his home.

At first they rattled, fought and raged
Another long sunset range away.
Howling for wood and spirit power.
Hungry to seek land without wheel,
Hungry without horse.

Another fierce face came,
Called by some, said to tame
Where naked ores belched rough
And ice tempered men,
Tobacco blood, rasped and coughed.

“Gold and Silver for your pocket;
Sir, I’ll trade it for whiskey and a soft
Bed ‘tween the long feathered legs of
Painted angels, their paisley smiles,
Ironed curls and oiled bellies.”


Silverheels, her angel wings
Burnt in crystalline nights.
There where quartz cradled
Gold in her long veined arms.
She split men’s souls in two:
-One for the whiskey oresayer
-One for silverheels, sweet’n’true.
Then, oh beloved, she split it again.
One for railroads, clinkers and steam!

Then, God called her to account:
“Give service and your soul for the pox!”

Her silverheel soul tarnished to rust.
There, where alpine winds beckoned
Her strained and listless heart, listened
Slowed and quiet stopped.
Her heart stopped to hear:

“Come home to the granite iron dross,
And sweet silver nickel where ye,
Matched to a bloody, rugged cross,
Long ages and oceans away:

Matched your soul to another,
Matched your soul to your brother,
Matched your soul to Christ.
For you, He gave it all away.

Come home, beloved, and rest.
Here in high bright snows
Where God is close,
Yes, beloved, He knows you best.”

john bord said...

The magnet of the high iron tugs me me into the thread. I spend lots of time watching the trains roll past and chase them at times to capture the magical picture. My miniature pike has the clatter of the wheels as it rolls over the joints, the whistle rolls over the scene a time past brought to life in the fertile realms of grey matter. I can sit for hours and dream of the travels on the rails.

The neighboring town has a small museum, I host a model train show there in the summer. Part of the complex is an old heavyweight diner car, circa 1920's. It is pretty much untouched, cast iron cook stove, ice box, wood butcher style counters, a serving counter and tables with wire back chairs. During the train days and other events it is in use. The local ladies serve home baked goodies with ice cream and coffee. A little Norwegian influence. To sit in it, be served in it is going through a time machine. It sits next to the depot, now 101 years old, on the mainline now closed.
I spend lots of time in the area when I'm there watching the trains pass by or watching the RR switch cars in the yard.

Oh I could on for hours...... you have triggered so many things.

Two things, in your travels, there is the roundhouse in Baltimore, full of old steam engines and on the other coast is the RR museum in Sacramento. both are great places to see the old days of railroading.

On the High Iron.

Keads said...

Whoops, doing the ride here: http://www.nctrans.org/

Jim said...

Many things were well-made but suffer now, and equally many things are only getting better.

Many old machine tools are refitted with modern controls. Many classic aircraft have GPS and good radios. Steam locomotives, wonders that they are, roll more safely on trackage protected by modern systems.

That said there are many "old ways" that will always be useful. (Just ask General Motti)

Jim

Answers? I don't know the questions. said...

I rode a narrow gauge train on a day trip from an Alaskan cruise. It went over a mountain and back. I don't know what I was more impressed with: whoever did the engineering and construction of the rails or whoever dreamed that it could be done in the first place.

Larry said...

I think you would like the East Broad Top.
http://www.ebtrr.com/index.php
http://www.spikesys.com/EBT/
I know it's one of my very favorite places.

og said...

heh. You said "old Tools"

(raises hand)

Ask me in meatspace about steam engines one day.

Old Grouch said...

Had to link this once more:
Sometimes the old (rail)ways are the best.

The loco is NEW, completed in 2009.

Joshkie said...

If you get the chance you need to ride the Durango Silverton Rail. Its a 75 mile narrow gauge track between Durango and Silverton CO. Gets up and over 10,ooo ft if I remember corectly been a while.